Balconies: Rise Over Run

Balconies are a staple in apartment complexes, hotels, and romantic Medieval literature. They offer a place for a smoke break, a sip of coffee, or a lengthy soliloquy spoken in Iambic Pentameter about a love forbidden by deep familial feuds. Balconies should be peaceful areas of refuge.

They should not make your apartment leak!

This seems like it should be a no brainer. Just slope the balcony away from the structure! Any rainwater that collects on it will be spirited away. However there are sometimes competing forces in construction that can make this seemingly easy principle difficult to follow. While the balcony is usually the purview of the architect, the structural engineer, the contractor and even the concrete itself, all have a roles to play.

Architects typically shoot for a 1% grade. But a number of external factors can cut into this already razor thin margin. The structural engineer might want a thicker slab at the perimeter. The contractor’s finishing might miss the mark.

The contractor is responsible for getting within these tolerances but like a rebellious Capulet, the concrete might not always listen. Concrete mix design, placement and environmental conditions can potentially allow the concrete to curl or otherwise deform. If any of these variables are severe enough, they can take that 1% drainage plane that you started with and start turning it back into the building.

A 2% slope, usually a 1/4” drop per foot, is more ideal for positive drainage and gives you a little more room for error. Leaking balconies seem like small issue but they can lead to moldy carpets, door replacements and premature deterioration of the concrete itself. It may not totally kill your building but “'tis enough, 'twill serve.”

If you already find yourself with reverse sloped balconies, then there are measures you can take.

Cementitious patching materials can help with drainage while waterproof coatings can help mitigate moisture intrusion.

And now a summation written in Iambic Pentameter*:

The rain falls down and flows inside! Dismay!

Fair Slope, you elude my grasp! Oh why

Did I not plan for curls in my concrete?

What can be done? What salve soothes this mistake?

*proudly not written by ChatGPT thankyouverymuch…**

**but I did check my work with it…

A Cast of Masonry Characters

A good ensemble cast is the key to any great TV show. On the hit show "Friends", each cast member brought something different to the table. The same theory applies to masonry buildings. Especially in the Western PA and West Virginia markets, masonry buildings were (and are) often designed with multiple substrates because of their different attributes and visual style.

As designers, you need to direct this cast! Get the most out of them and use their talents wisely! So who is who on your cast of masonry "Friends"?

Limestone = Phoebe – Au-Naturale, versatile and intriguing. Like Pheobe, limestone has an old soul. That's because limestone is formed by eons of sedimentary buildup. You might even be able to see some fossils in the stone from long, long ago. Seashells, trilobytes, maybe even a sabertoothed tiger…that “smelly cat.”

Concrete = Joey – Joey was an actor who could take on a wide variety of roles. Similarly, concrete can take almost any form. It can be used for a grade beam, a foundation wall, a patio or driveway. If integrally colored and textured, it might even fool you into thinking it was a natural stone. 

Granite = Monica – Solid, rigid and a bit unfeeling. That means it’s a perfect material to use for countertops, monuments, bridges piers, columns, and floors. Since it is very dense and less permeable to water and salts, it is a popular option for exterior masonry wall bases where sidewalks meet brick walls.  However, lots of designers miss this detailing. So remember, "If I'm harsh with you, it's only because you're doing it wrong."

Sandstone = Chandler – Just like Chandler’s sarcastic sense of humor, sandstone can be abrasive at times. However, at its core, sandstone is solid and durable. Depending on where they are quarried, sandstones can be very dense or porous and absorptive. So they might deteriorate over time via freeze-thaw cycles. "Could you BE any more in need of a penetrating water-repellent?"

Marble = Rachel – Much like Jennifer Anniston’s haircut in the 90’s, marble is known for its stunning color and beauty. It has been used to make the world’s greatest sculptures and can even make your kitchen island pop. But the truth is that marble is a little bit dainty. It is a calcium-based stone, which means it can etch and stain in the presence of water, acids or other chemicals. “Isn’t that just kick-you-in-the-crotch, spit-on-your-neck fantastic?”

Brick = Ross – Plain, some might even say a bit boring but reliable. There’s no denying it has an appeal.  Don’t forget that when constructing a brick wall, the International Masonry Institute recommends spacing expansion joints every 20-30 feet. You don’t want thermal expansion to cause your brick wall to say that they "were on a break!”

The Healing Power of Crystals!!!

Brothers and sisters, let me speak to you about the healing power of crystals! I'm not talking about curing your sprained ankle with the wave of a Swarovski. I'm talking about fixing your leaky elevator pit / foundation wall with a specialized repair material known as crystalline waterproofing.

Crystalline waterproofing was invented in 1943 when Danish chemist Lauritz Jensen patented a revolutionary capillary active waterproofing compound. These compounds migrate into the pore structure of concrete and grow crystals, reducing the concrete's permeability. In contrast to membrane type coatings, which are susceptible to delaminations, blistering, etc, crystalline waterproofing becomes (not to sound too crunchy here)...one with the concrete.

Under a microscope, this action looks a lot like the "Magic Rocks" science experiment your grandma got you for your birthday.

You never wrote her a thank you note, BTW...

Crystalline waterproofing can be delivered in one of two ways. 1) It can be incorporated as an admixture directly into fresh concrete. 2) It can also be topically applied as a coating, like Euclid Chemical's Vandex Super. This coating can be put on either the negative (dry) side or the positive (wet) side of a concrete wall.

Typically, placing on the positive side will yield the best results, but especially in repair situations, a contractor is not able to gain access to the wall from the outside. Therefore, they have to apply the material from the inside.

So if you have a wet foundation wall, an elevator pit or any other area that might need some help drying out, don't forget the power of crystals!

You can learn more about Vandex crystalline waterproofing here in this video.

Dense and Densifier

Coming to a Warehouse Floor Near You!!!

You've got a warehouse floor, a distribution center or a polished concrete project and you're not going to use a colloidal silicate to treat it?!? What are you? Dense?

Concrete Densifiers are a staple in the concrete world. They can help make concrete more durable, more reflective, and less porous. But many designers are still unsure about how they work and how they're supposed to be used.

To fully understand, we have to put our science hats on for a second and look at what's happening with freshly placed concrete. When the cement in a concrete mix goes through it's hydration process, it leaves a by-product behind called Calcium Hydroxide. Calcium Hydroxide is that dusty substance you'll see often times after newly poured concrete is cured. Basically, the silicate chemicals in various densifiers react with that dusty stuff and fill the pore structure of the concrete, thus densifying it.

Not a "sealer"

While densifiers can help increase water-repellency, they are not a "sealer" in the true sense. The increased density will slow liquids from absorbing but they will not fully prevent it. So if you have environments that are going to be constantly wet or exposed to other chemicals, you’ll probably need to look at an epoxy or other membrane forming material.

Here's what densifiers can do: For a low cost of application and installation, you'll have concrete that resists wear from abrasion, repels water, and reduces the appearance of tire marks and stains. Euclid’s Diamond Hard is the gold standard of densifiers in this space, used by the worlds largest retailers for their warehouse’s and distribution centers.

If you want even more information on densifiers, watch this quick overview video I made and "Totally REDEEM YOURSELF!"

Cold Weather Masonry

I'm writing this from my office (aka my basement). Summer’s over and there’s a little nip in the air…

Studio Audience: How cold is it?

Me: It's colder than a polar bear's toenails! I'm saying it's cold!

Studio Audience: HAHAHA! How cold is it?

Me: It's so cold, I chipped my tooth eating soup! I'm saying it's COLD!

Studio Audience: HAHAHA! How cold is it?

Me: It's so cold...I tried to build a masonry wall and my mortar wasn't able to gain sufficient strengths before the expansive action of water freezing damaged it irreparably!

Studio Audience: Haha ...Wait....wha?

If construction stopped every time it got below 40 degrees in Western PA, nothing would get built. We're a masonry market here through and through. But what can be done when temperatures drop below the acceptable range for installation?

• Heat Your Materials - Between 40 and 32 degrees, the International Masonry Institute recommends heating at least one of your mortar components (typically either sand or the water). The warmer mixing temperatures allows the cementitious component of your mortar to do its thing.

• Tent It In - Once you get below 25 degrees, the IMI recommends tenting in the area and pump heat into it, bringing the temperatures to an acceptable level. This is good for your masonry and your masons!

• Use an Admixture - Using an accelerating admixture like Euclid's Accelguard 80 kickstarts the chemical reaction between the water and cementitious material. This accelerated reaction offsets the delay caused by temperature, allowing the mortar to gain strength rapidly and fight off Jack Frost.

If you want a really quick primer, here's my man Bob Villa on a classic episode of This Old House talking about cold-weather masonry.

Peel Back the Layers on Deck Coatings

Concrete is pretty tough material all by itself. That's why it's one of the most ubiquitous construction materials and synonymous with strength in everyday vernacular* .

But despite its many great features, concrete and other types of masonry have one weakness: water. So how can we protect structures that use A LOT of concrete (like a parking garage) from this scourge? With a traffic coating of course!

Properly selected and applied traffic membrane systems can protect concrete from deterioration caused by moisture, environmental and other service conditions. But the word "system" conjures up headaches for most architects and engineers. "Systems" almost always mean more than one component and usually complicated sequencing of installation. So let's peel back the layers of a quality waterproofing system to make it a little more simple.

Most traffic coatings are comprised of three to four layers, each serving a different function. Once vapor testing and surface prep is compete, the first layer is a primer. The key to the longevity of a traffic coating system is its bond to a sound concrete substrate. A primer not only ensures that you have a good bond, but can also help mitigate moisture drive issues if they are present.

Some companies try to sell their systems by skipping this primer step and saying that a primer isn't needed. To paraphrase Chris Rock:

"You can do it if you want to but that doesn't mean it's to be done! You can drive a car with your feet if you want to. That doesn't make it a good (expletive)-ing idea!"

The second layer is the urethane membrane that is essentially the workhorse of the entire system. This material is the layer that really keeps the water out. Urethane membranes have the ability to move with your concrete and span certain types of cracks as well. However, urethanes are soft and aren't tough enough to withstand the wear of car tires or heavy pedestrian foot traffic.

The third layer is an "intermediate coat" that is broadcasted with some kind of fine aggregate. This coat is sometimes called a "lock coat" because it is the material that "locks" the fine aggregate in place, which provides the durability and skid resistance.

The final layer is an topcoat. This last step protects the aggregate layer and provides a tenacious, UV stable color that can last years with proper maintenance.

Too Long...Didn't Read...

Typical Traffic Coating Layers:

1) Primer - Bonds the system to the concrete

2) Membrane - Provides the true waterproofing performance

3) Intermediate - Protects membrane and locks in the aggregate

4) Topcoat - Increases durability and provides aesthetic appearance.

If you want to learn even more there's a great tech guideline from the International Concrete Repair Institute that goes into further detail on the many types of traffic coating systems.

*That's right...I used "ubiquitous", "synonymous" and "vernacular" in the same sentence. Thank you word of the day calendar!)

Pin for the Win!

I usually like to take a bit of a glib tone when discussing most construction topics. Talking about vapor permeability, hydrostatic pressure, and concrete hydration can be (last joke I promise)...a bit dry.

The topic today is a bit more serious because it does have some major safety ramifications. Recently there have been a few high profile incidents of masonry components falling off of buildings in major metro areas. We've had a few close calls of our own here in Pittsburgh, including a time where a 1300 pound piece of granite fell off of the Frick building. Thankfully, no one was hurt. Cities have been reacting quickly with increased building facade inspection requirements. Currently, the city of Pittsburgh requires that every building facade be inspected by a licensed engineer or architect on a 5 year interval. Property owners are responsible to contact their own third party licensed professional and keep a report on file for review by a the City of Pittsburgh.

We have a lot of old buildings in Pittsburgh that might need some help when it comes to beefing up their masonry walls in order to comply with the requirements. Luckily Prosoco is coming to the rescue. They have their own line of masonry stabilization products that can help pin masonry back to the structure and extend service life. Not only do they have great products, they have a team of engineers that can partner with design teams to help solve even the trickiest applications.

Prosoco has an outstanding reputation with architects, building envelope scientists and restoration contractors. The reason? They care deeply about our country's buildings and are willing to do what it takes to help ensure they can be enjoyed safely for many years to come.

Project Spotlight: Wood St. Commons

Wood St. Commons in downtown Pittsburgh was facing some issues related to their unbonded brick facade (terra cotta backup). It was getting to the point where the wall was beginning to displace outward with bulges becoming significant on some areas (4+ inches). Mike Payne, P.E. and the team at BECS did a full evaluation of the wall and decided to utilize Prosoco's Stitch-Tie helical anchors in order to supplement lateral support and avoid costly removal and replacement. Helical anchor mockup testing was performed to verify pull out strength into terra cotta prior to the work and performance testing was done during the work as part of QA/QC. Once everyone was satisfied, Graciano Masonry, whose mantra is "Giving a Future to the Past", installed the helical anchors successfully.

By engaging a qualified firms like BECS, Graciano and Prosoco, the Wood Street Commons Building should enjoy a long and safe service life.

It's the Final WASHDOWN!

I guess there is no one to blame...

Will things ever be the same again?

It's the final [wash]down.

- Europe (Hair Metal Band )

Your masonry building has been built. The walls are plumb. The joints are struck. All that's left to do now is wash off all of those mortar smears and job site dirt that has accumulated during construction.

A laborer climbs up onto the scaffolding with a bucket of some un-identified cleaner and a power washer. Two weeks later, you see a brown, white or even green mineral deposits on your brand new building. It looked good a week ago. Now it's like someone took a blowtorch to your brick. What happened? Who is to blame? "Will things ever be the same again?"

This scenario happens every day when well-meaning professionals try to use a one-size-fits-all type of cleaner (or worse yet, muriatic acid) on their new building. That’s why I always recommend cleaning new buildings the right way, with a purpose-formulated cleaner for the specific substrate and stain.

As design styles adopted a more modern aesthetic, brick producers began introducing a variety of brick colors besides red. They would incorporate different clay blends, metal salts, and use lower firing temperatures to produce gray, brown and lighter colors of brick. These different colors were more absorbent, more vulnerable to damage from cheap cleaners than traditional red bricks.

For new construction clean-down, muriatic acid and other cheap cleaning agents are the wrong decision. That’s because they can stain and burn your masonry, etch mortar joints and cause premature biological staining from water penetration. Prosoco products like 600 and Vanatrol are quality-controlled formulations and have been used successfully all around Western PA and West Virginia.

Put the right cleaners in your specs by name! Don't leave this up for interpretation; don't settle for anything less than the best.

Prosoco has your back. Check the handy chart below to see what cleaners are appropriate for your project.

Don't get burned...it's the FINAL WASHDOWN!!!

Are Your Materials Compatible?

"What counts in making a happy marriage is not so much how compatible you are but how you deal with incompatibility." - Tolstoy

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Tolstoy's Anna Karenina is widely considered to be one of the greatest pieces of literature in modern history. It is an expansive, sweeping novel that deals primarily with the conflict of the titular character, Anna, and a relationship triangle which ultimately leads to disaster. The central conflict revolves around Anna's relationship with her husband Alexei, a dutiful, but caring career man whom she just doesn't love; and Count Vronsky, a dashing cavalryman with whom Anna is having an extramarital affair.

If you can't tell, I just read this book and I'm willing to shoe-horn it into just about any conversation...including one about building envelopes.

The central problem in Anna Karenina boils down to compatibility. There is nothing wrong with Alexei but Anna just isn't compatible with him. She cannot force herself to be compatible with him. So she leaves her husband for Vronzky, causing her to become an outcast, her family to be left in ruin and ultimately to her own death. Who needs Bridgerton!? AMIRIGHT?!?!

In the same way, designers may have materials that are perfectly fine on their own, but they aren't compatible with adjacent systems. The question you must ask yourself is, "How am I as a designer, dealing with incompatibility on my project?"

This question arises daily in the world of construction. With so many different materials and chemistries interacting with one another, it's hard to tell what will share compatibility. So why don't we take the guess work out entirely and use a product in transitional areas that is compatible with nearly all construction adhesives?

Introducing York 304 SA, a flexible self-adhering stainless steel material that can be used as a transition membrane on wall connection points (roof-to-wall; below grade-to-wall, air barrier transitions, etc).

Basically, the idea is that 304 stainless steel is chemically compatible with almost every construction material and it’s an excellent surface to adhere all manner of air barriers, sealants, etc. By using the York 304 SA tape to detail areas of transitions between dissimilar materials, you almost entirely eliminate the chance for incompatibility.

Despite my references to Russian literature, it made the most sense to me once I saw it in a dumbed down gif...

A 50' roll of 9" wide material probably goes for $85.00 or so. It's a pretty small expense to have for that peace of mind. I included a link to an article in CoatingsPro Magazine that goes into a bit more depth on the subject. There's also a webinar for designers through the Air Barrier Association of America on the same topic on March 10th if you want to learn more.

With York 304 SA, your incompatible materials can have a happy marriage on your project.

What Do You Want Your Building to Say?

Graffiti is an art form as old as humanity itself. People have been leaving their marks on dwellings since the Chauvet Cave paintings 44,000 year ago. When done thoughtfully and with an owner's consent, graffiti can serve as a snapshot of the culture. The problem with most graffiti artists, is that unlike other painters, they don't own the canvas they are painting upon.

In this case, consent is what separates a mural from a misdemeanor. It's one thing for a building owner to commission a graffiti art piece on the east side of their building. It's entirely another for someone to buy can of Krylon and write their Twitter handle on a building in the middle of the night. And if Banksy himself tagged my house without my consent, I'm pretty sure I'd be miffed.

Cleaning graffiti off of a building is an incredibly difficult task, especially on masonry. The combination of porous, absorbent masonry and the high solvent (VOC) composition of spray paint means that the graffiti will likely soak deep into the brick or block, making normal power-washing a fruitless endeavor. You can try chemical stripping, which can take off the paint from the surface, but residual paint can remain in the pores resulting in graffiti "shadowing." You can also sand-blast the material off, but you now risk permanently damaging the substrate or worse, etching the graffiti into the masonry itself.

So what can architects do to make sure that their building is saying what they intended? An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure in this case. On masonry buildings, using an anti-graffiti coating like Prosoco's BlokGuard and Graffiti Control II or SC-1 (Sacrificial Coating) will ensure that even if your building does get selected to be an "art piece", that clean up will be a breeze. These breathable materials, create a thin film on the surface of the masonry which blocks spray paint, grease pencils, etc from soaking into the pores. Also, you don't have to treat the entire building, the vast majority of graffiti happens within 8 feet of grade. So unless Andre the Giant is vandalizing your building, then you don't need to treat any higher than that.

If you apply these coatings correctly and your building still gets tagged, simply clean off with Prosoco's Graffiti Remover.

In the end, taking small protective measures will allow your building to speak for itself.